游记 | 迪拜老城的咖啡博物馆
迪拜过境一个上午，烈日炎炎，还是拖着懒惰小人离开机场酒店进城看看。
之前去阿布扎比旅游都没到这厢，其实也是觉得好像没有什么特别感兴趣的地方，用小伙伴的话说“仿佛没有文化积淀” (那次的游记还没写完) (欢迎催稿)。
I’m not totally sure if I really wanted to go out after a long flight across Asia and the Indian Ocean. Last time I went to Abu Dhabi with my friend, we decided not to go to Dubai because we weren’t interested in shopping malls and luxurious hotels.
Well, here I am. My destination is a small coffee museum, which, according to Google reviews, isn’t really worth visiting unless you are already in that part of the town.
目的地是一个超小的咖啡博物馆。谷歌评论说在附近的话就随便看看，不然没必要专程过去。但反正我也只是想找个借口进城。
迪拜入境敲章的时候往护照夹了一张免费sim卡，插上之后直接实名使用，倒也方便。（希望全球推广。）
The weather isn’t too bad, as I've almost gotten used to the impact of global warming on Shanghai.
省心地买了一张地铁全日通票，20 AED。“黄金”头等舱是 42 AED，我今天时间不多，就到群众中去。
从上海出发，这个天气竟然其实也还算宜人 (笑)。
路过一个蛮好看的环岛就到老城区啦。
Passing by the decorated roundabout, I left behind the crowded street and entered the old town.
这片所谓老城区其实很新，有点像上海的张园和新天地。城市更新不无权钱、士绅化，有的时候保留了建筑的壳子却抹去了历史。
社区原本的名字似乎是 Al Bastakiya，得名于伊朗南部城镇 Bastak，因波斯商人而兴起于1890年代。巷子里有大概60户富裕人家。
时过境迁，到了一个世纪后的1980年代，一半房屋已被市政规划拆迁，剩下的房子里挤满了货仓和外籍劳工。1989年，迪拜市政府决定将这里彻底夷平——但是，某英国建筑师 Rayner Otter 刚刚改造完新居。行动力max的他于是写信给同年计划访问阿联酋的查尔斯王子，而查尔斯王子之后真的提出去要去参观，还提议应当保留历史建筑。这一半就这样留了下来。
2005年，迪拜市政府对此地进行修缮，开发为文旅地标，重新命名为 Al Fahidi 历史街区。
The so-called “historical district” is actually fairly new. Many parts are still under construction. There are clear signs of money, power, and gentrification, and the preserved architecture has been emptied of the neighborhood and its people’s history.
穿过弯弯绕绕的小巷，豆蔻味的咖啡香气扑面而来。
里面别有洞天。街上几乎没有行人，博物馆里的游客却很密集，不知从哪里冒出来。强劲的冷气和咖啡香气一样令人愉悦。
The place is filled with the aroma of spiced coffee. I have no idea where these tourists come from. The street is almost empty, but somehow this little place is filled with visitors.
门票包含的两杯咖啡，阿拉伯风和埃塞俄比亚风都比预期淡一些、稀一些，毕竟一共只要 10 AED。
虽然吃过自助早餐，饥饿总是在晌午如期而至，两颗椰枣倒是正好。
Two cups of coffee are included in the ticket. Both the Arab and Ethiopian coffee selections are weaker and more watery than I expected. Still, they taste nice with the dates.
里面的展览和迪拜关系不大，介绍了咖啡的起源、品种、处理方式等等。只有一个房间陈列了阿拉伯咖啡文化，大抵全世界都对瓶瓶罐罐、杯杯盏盏没有抵抗力。嗦咖啡的猎鹰照片也很可爱。
还有 Jojo作者插画的拉花艺术书本，可惜内页不知所踪。
下次有时间可以去附近的咖啡店坐坐。
The exhibition isn’t really related to Dubai. Basically, it serves as an introduction to coffee’s history, varieties, and processing methods. There is only one room that displays Arab coffee pots and tool sets. Who can resist collecting these little things that make life fuller and more pleasant? The photo of a falcon sipping from a cup is very adorable.
Maybe next time I will visit some of the nice cafes in the area.
确实没有必要专程拜访，但地铁来回一个多小时，总之也是离开过机场。
Anyway, it was my excuse to venture beyond the airport.
在 T3 阿联酋航空的值机柜台排队。一区满了去三区，三区排到了说特拉维夫要到五区，又把五区排完说要到最后一个窗口 520。Fine。算了，有的飞不错了。土耳其-以色列航线缩水之后，Fly Dubai 成了以色列通往东亚和东南亚的大动脉。
总之就是飞以色列永远不需要买 lounge。出关的时候又已经临近预定登机时间，好在迪拜的安检和阿布扎比一样快，疾行间还有余裕浏览长廊上的摄影展。
I guess I’ll never have to buy a lounge pass for flights to Israel. Moving from one counter to another with my passport and visa, I passed the security just before the boarding time— fortunately, the flight was delayed.
在登机口点了阿联酋麦当当新品“大美味”蘑菇芝士牛堡，去洋葱去酱料。可爱的店员们反复给我确认，结果最后给我加酱料去蘑菇⋯⋯
但牛肉饼还是喷香多汁的。而且就是为了这一口去圣城前大快朵颐“不洁食品”的罪恶感才没有选鸡肉卷 —— 但是清真。
I ended up at the McDonald's next to the gate. “The new Big Tasty Mushroom burger, no sauce, regular cheese mushroom.” The staff double confirmed with me. My burger, however, came with regular sauce and no mushrooms. Fine. The beef patty still tastes juicy and lovely. The “guilt” of eating something unkosher (but halal) before reaching Israel made it nonetheless exciting.
飞机上的鸡肉饭闻起来就不好吃，隔壁大叔托腮满面愁容最后也没吃完。但我在这个时候，拿出了爽脆的麦当当黎巴嫩色拉：烤面包粒、石榴、生菜、番茄、萝卜、欧芹、嘿嘿。
航司发的水好像是取自我上次阿布扎比行有去过的 Al Ain 绿洲。怀念 (神の催更)。
The meal on the flight smelled and looked unappetizing. The guy next to me spent most time gazing at the orange and white substance after the first bite. I, on the other hand, dived into my McCafe crunchy fattoush, with pomegranate, croutons, radish, lettuce, and mint.
原标题：《游记 | 迪拜老城的咖啡博物馆》